The one advantage is that you get to re-do it all in a couple of years when it rots out! Lots of fun, very noisy!! This frame is engineered to take a little more motor for our customers that enjoy pushing their cars a little harder. Wear gloves, apply plenty in a solid bead, and then go over with your finger to push it into the gaps. I've never met anyone with a spot welder long enough to spot weld these in, but I managed the next best thing. It will meet your needs and deliver great quality at an affordable... Front Subframe (113-701-037 L) by Dansk®. It was painted with a stone chip gun (sometimes called a shutz gun) which came with the kit. Only make one pass, don't fiddle around trying to make it look pretty. no one remembers second place, or like we like to say, "the first loser". I would NOT recommend seam welding, as the amount of heat would warp the floors and the amount of gas and wire you would use would be frightening! high quality is the only thing we know. Custom Builds Services Tech Contact Us Category Superior Design.

This would also raise the height of the engine, making it look meaner. It's simply a copy of the original cradle, but with the mounts 2.5" higher up. I certainly consulted Jesus several times throughout the build. If I get enough requests, I'll upload one about the body repairs too. Seems my heavy welding and splaying of the tunnel had altered the shape of the centre tunnel slightly.

In a Bug, this is supposed to be bolted together.

It was obvious that the press did not have the correct tonnage for the gauge of steel, and so it had sprung out of the former. Nice and simple to do at this point, and it would pay huge dividends later! At this point, I decided to buy a whole new chassis. This chassis looked like it only needed a couple of small patches. It was a bit of a learning curve.

Out with the air chisel (again, a grinder would have done just fine here), and I cut the body from the floors to give what you see in pictures four and five. Very inspiring. Subframe by Dansk®. I then took a level of the framehead by winding in two bolts into the suspension mounts and placing the spirit level across them. The Story of our 1969 VW Beetle; Our Plans for Our V8 Beetle; Getting Our Beetle Home; Collecting Parts; Construction.

Then, it is simply a case of bolting the front gearbox mount you cut off to the front of the gearbox, offering the gearbox nose up to the hole in the chassis, and pushing it in so that the gearbox mount mates up with the chassis. This statement is really important: If you must use this material, clean the galvanised coating off the area you are going to weld thoroughly with a flap wheel. Anything over 0.8 is a little too heavy for the intricate work. This custom tube frame for our Coupe and Speedster bodies uses a standard ball joint beam in the front and a modified VW IRS torsion assembly in the rear.

This was not a smart way of working on a car, but it was to allow me a clear, quick look to be sure it was even safe to jack up. Carefully adjusting and regularly checking front and rear, I tack welded the frame head in place, and marked a little more of the original tunnel I could cut away for a better fit, broke the tacks and trimmed things to fit more snugly.

Making sure the front and rear mounts were level relative to one another would ensure the geometry of the wheels wound be correct when it was back on the road. It was finally time to paint the chassis!

It also lends a little more strength to the weld to not grind flat unless it needs it. Refitting a new frame head can feel daunting, any misalignment or bad measurement would have the chassis geometry all wrong. on Introduction, You don't fool around nice job I don't know of a better one love to see the final of the job.stay safe and good luck!

So, I opted to press on with repairing instead. Since I had the bottom plate off the centre tunnel at the moment, and I had a whole spare chassis to chop up, I decided to move the hand brake to in front of the gearshift. If you weld galvanised coating, you will end up getting attacked by what I can only describe as toxic snow.

Love it, bucket at the end was the best though. Next up is to make a new cradle. I then cut the donor framehead off, making sure it was cut in such a way as to be a few inches LONGER than the old one (that is, taking more of the centre tunnel with it than what I cut off the old chassis). Make sure that you clean BOTH SIDES of any area to be welded VERY well with a flap wheel or a grinding disc. :-). Mine is a little agricultural, I made this with 5mm plate steel and a plasma cutter. To weld the centre tunnel, you want your welder really cranked up to deliver a lot of current, with a high wire speed. This custom tube frame for our Coupe and Speedster bodies uses a standard ball joint beam in the front and a modified VW IRS torsion assembly in the rear.

Stripping the Beetle; Body Work ; Chevy 350 Engine and 2004R Trans; Our S10 Chassis; Cost of Project; Links & Resources. Then, shave a little off the gearbox mount (not much, you can adjust the toe-out by adjusting your spring plated later too), offer the gearbox back up and tack the mount in place.

The thickness of the steel was fine, but the quality of the pressing was very poor. Third, the gearbox needs to be pushed forwards slightly to correct the resultant change in toe-in of the back wheels (that is the angle the back tyres point inwards at the front edge of the wheel). Mark where it sits, move the gearbox away, and clean the area around the marks. I've been saving up for my first project car, but been making junk for 30 years in preparation for projects just like this. The first five pictures here speak far louder than any words I can type. It was only supposed to be a temporary one, I planned to have some steel laser cut later to make a nicer one, but since you can't see it I keep forgetting! After all this work and care, even mine had warped. Participated in the Motor Vehicle Contest.

Sitting exhausted, sweating, my arms so spent they barely had the strength to bring my coffee to my parched trembling lips, the Napoleon's Hat was finally beaten and wedged in the right place. However, once I had recovered my strength, I set about hitting this with a heavy weld. But since I was not installing Bug seats I cared not a jot!

Chances are, neither are the fire brigade.

These were not the correct year floors for my car, mine required different seat runners. Take your time, go steady, and remember that mistakes can be rectified. Because, once you start pulling at a thread, things start to unravel! I decided the best thing to do was to chop off my destroyed framehead, and take the one from the new chassis and weld that in.

Getting to this point meant stripping the interior and wiring harness out. 6 months ago 2) Because the car is old, and has seen many things, bits of the chassis will not be quite where the mustachio'd avocado munching factory workers put them all those years ago. This is where the front suspension bolts to the chassis. Custom Beetle with a Twin-Turbo Audi 4.2 L V8. So. The difference in grade of steel, quality of pressings and accuracy of fit is marked. Welding mask - an auto darkening helmet with a grind setting is best here. Because my car sported lowered suspension, I always had negative camber - the bottom of the wheel stuck out more than the top, making the wheels look "wonky" on the back.

You really need a good mask, otherwise you will make life hard for yourself. I'll write an Instructable about this one day, maybe. I don't think I took many photographs of the lever when I made it though. Box 180928Coronado, CA 92178 USA. Budget floors are just not happening for me, they are about 0.75mm thick and poorly pressed and given they are the only thing between my behind and the road, I'd be grateful for good steel!

https://en-gb.facebook.com/LVHEnginesRestos/.

Don't just dive in mob-handed without honing in your welder's settings. Take a small hammer, screwdriver and Stanley blade, and set about it. Do not use stainless, it is brittle and may crack with the torsional loads the engine puts on it. This meant that I couldn't use it in good conscience (in the UK, it would have been highly suspect just re-stamping the chassis with the number that came on the paperwork I was given with the chassis, and could have resulted in all sorts of legal issues). I'll do one eventually, though the lever really was easy - it's just a stock handbrake lever cut up and re positioned, and the brass brake lever from an old Norton motorcycle fitted to it to pull on the release mechanism. Did you make this project? A small patch of rot is rarely a small patch of rot. I then seam welded the fronts of the floors to the Napoleon's Hat, and then added some galvanising spray to all the welds and edges (picture 5). 2) The gearbox is magnesium alloy. Then, using a butane torch and very short, VERY hot welds and a large hammer, I persuaded the plate that it was in the wrong and that it wanted to fit perfectly after all. You want to work with shiny metal with not a hint of rust or paint. To achieve this, four things need to be done. Superior Performance. It was time to weld on the new "Napoleon's Hat" - this one really, REALLY has to be in the right place. Thanks for sharing all your work (and do an 'Ible on that awesome handbrake lever).

You need something that will cool as well as smother the fire. They are interchangeable, but the shift rod in the Splitty nosecone exits lower down than the Bug one, which keeps the shifter in the tunnel.

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